Day 15, September 8: Ledigos to El Burgo Ranero (36 km; 7:10)

The Camino guide books speak of the haunting beauty and the huge skies of the Meseta. In reality it is hot, dry, windy, desolate, and seemingly endless. Although mostly flat, it is dotted with inhabited valleys and depressions - a bit like walking across Saskatchewan. For this reason some peregrinos choose to bypass this section of the Camino.

The only city of substance between Burgos and Leon is Sahagun.

498. Sahagun from 5 km away

On the approach, I detoured briefly to view the pilgrim bridge and Virgen del Puente Chapel, 499. Pilgrim bridge at Virgen del Puente

500. ... and chapel

then found a park across from the Iglesia de San Tirso where I ate my lunch. This church was a good example of the brick construction that is necessitated by the lack of stone in this part of Spain.

507.

To the left of the park was an exquisite city gate, the arch of San Benito, which was originally the facade of a monastery dating back to the 12th century.

506. Arch of San Benito

About an hour later I reached Calzada de Coto, where there is a choice of two routes. I was persuaded to stick to the main route by a Spanish couple whom I had been seeing almost daily for almost two weeks.

509. took the left fork.

In hindsight they were right, as I would have had to walk a 22 kilometre section without any facilities the following day. Along the way I passed a man from Canada and a woman from Finland, who walked hand-in-hand. Love on the Camino!

510. My favourite candid Camino shot

The village of El Burgo Ranero was the only place to stop as it was a further 13 kilometres to the next albergue.

511. Private albergue at El Burgo Ranero
At the only local restaurant, I shared dinner with a man from Puerto Rico and a couple from Denmark. They served a great menu de peregrino consisting of soup, calamari, and ice cream.