“The Camino is really easy apart from walking and carrying your backpack”

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Day 16, September 9: El Burgo Ranero to Leon (38 km; 7:30)

This was a long hot day, made no easier by the discovery that the only bar in Reliegos (after 13 kilometres of walking) was closed because it was Sunday – welcome to Spain! It was another six kilometres to Mansilla de las Mullas before I could have some coffee and croissants.

In this part of Spain there are underground bodegas. In some instances they are also used as homes.

513 The bodega chimneys are actually vents
The last town before reaching Leon is Arcahueja. There was a modern pilgrim rest stop as you entered the town, oddly decorated with an almost-new pair of hiking boots which someone had carefully placed up in the rafters. I later learned they had been left by Mark from Ireland, whom I met quite by chance a few days later and who forever endeared himself to me with a gift of some packets of Ibuprofen powder that provided enough pain relief from the tendonitis in my left leg to continue the Camino.

516. You can see Mark's hiking boots above the "agua potable" sign
The walk through the outskirts to Leon was similar to Burgos – uninteresting and dangerous, an unpleasant combination. At one point I was very nervously walking along the shoulder of a high speed 4-lane highway.

518. One of the dangerous highways along which I had to walk
The old city is delightful, with large open squares and narrow, winding streets.

526. The building with the spires in the background was designed by GAUDI

533. Main square by the cathedral

Like most European cities there are numerous sculptures and statues. One reminded me of a sculpture in downtown Red Deer.

535 A very contemporary sculpture.
537 All that's missing is a pigeon.
538 A more traditional pilgrim statue.
The albergue, a Benedictine Monastery, was a dump – dirty, noisy, poor facilities, with rows of creaky and uncomfortable bunk beds and as in many disreputable and tawdry inns there were uninvited guests – bedbugs. Overnighting in small towns and villages is far more pleasant. The only good thing about the albergue was that I met Markus from Germany. We would walk the remainder of the Camino together.

No comments:

Post a Comment