“The Camino is really easy apart from walking and carrying your backpack”

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Day 17, September 10: Leon to Hospital de Orbigo (36 km; 7:00)

In the morning I was in such a hurry to leave that I left a shirt on the clothes line. Hopefully they sold it to raise some money to upgrade the facilities!

The Meseta was coming to an end. I could see the mountains leading to Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) and, in the distance, O Cebreiro to the west.

The towns and villages along this section are steeped in the history of the Camino. The names say it all: Trobajo del Camino, La Virgen del Camino, San Miguel del Camino, San Martin del Camino.

At Valverde de la Virgen, the church bell tower was festooned with stork nests – a stork condo! The storks had already left for the winter – Spanish snowbirds?

542 the stork condo

Hospital de Orbigo is a pretty town with an interesting history. The approach to the town is over an impressive multi-arched 13th century bridge. Beside the bridge is an area where a jousting tournament is held each June to commemorate the quest of Don Suero de Quinones, who broke the lances of 300 knights in fights on the bridge to win the love of a lady who had spurned him. He eventually reached his goal, but I’m not sure if he got the girl. The story may have inspired “Don Quixote”.

544 Puente Orbigo

548 The jousting grounds.
I chose to stay in a modern, private albergue, the wonderful Albergue San Miguel. This was the most memorable place that I stayed during the whole Camino. They even had an easel where you could paint and add to the art that was displayed all over the albergue.

555 Albergue San Miguel
547 A fantastic table

554 the dining room


The fee was only six euros, and for an additional eight, I got breakfast and a communal dinner cooked by Tony, the hospitalero. Dinner started with a superb lentil soup (I had two helpings!) followed by a salad with corn and rice. Dessert was a slab of ice cream placed between two wafers. (I had two of those as well!)

556 Tony, the Hospitalero
The only down side to the day was that I started to experience some pain in my lower left leg shortly after leaving Leon.

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