Day 9, September 2: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado (22 km; 5:20)

Since it was Sunday, a day of rest, we decided to make it a short day of only 22 kilometres. It was another perfect day for walking.

The citizens of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of Santo Domingo, made sure that peregrinos wouldn’t get lost. 359. A plethora of arrows pointing the way to Viloria de Rioja.

On the outskirts of Belorado I ran into a lady from Spain with flaming red hair that I had been seeing on and off for a week. She was ending her walk in Burgos the next day but planned to continue the Camino next year. Regretfully, I never found out her name.

363. Our mystery lady with flaming red hair
By 1:30 in the afternoon I was sitting in the beautiful garden of the Albergue Cuatro Cantones (Four Corners), drinking German beer while listening to the haunting CD “This Embrace” by Kirtana http://www.kirtana.com/kirtana.html . The albergue even had a small in ground swimming pool. 365. Peaceful garden at the Albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado


366. Listening to Kirtana in this lovely garden. It doesn’t get better than this on the Camino!
It turned out to be festival time in Belorado. The main square was full of people, many of whom were dressed in identical “uniforms” that apparently designated organizations in the community. They were socializing, while waiting for the entertainment that was to start later in the evening. 373. The chartreus team at the Belorado Festival alternated between performing and spectating.

375. setting the stage in the main square.376. More of the performer/ spectator teams.

377. Ditto. Note the uniforms. The menu de peregrinos at one of the restaurants facing the square consisted of a paella starter followed by fried veal and ice cream for dessert. As usual, the eight euro price included all the red wine we could consume.

We had just settled in for the night when all hell broke loose. Loud music from the main square which was about a block away hammered the albergue. Unlike Larrasuana, the music continued until 5 in the morning, at which time one of the local drum and bugle bands marched right by the albergue while playing and drumming with gusto. We got an early start that morning.