“The Camino is really easy apart from walking and carrying your backpack”

Friday, March 13, 2009

Day 26, September 19: Arca to Santiago de Compostela (20 km; 4:40)

A sky filled with brilliant stars and the glow of the lights of Santiago on the western horizon greeted us as we left the albergue. Near Lavacolla, we found a bar that was open and had coffee and croissants. This little town was a ceremonial stop for Middle Age pilgrims who would clean themselves before completing the walk to Santiago. For many of them, this would have been their first bath since they started the Camino. Pilgrims today may seem smelly, but there was no comparison with those of old. Interestingly, the name Lavacolla comes from the Latin meaning “wash your scrotum”! Markus and I didn’t find it necessary to bathe as we had showered the night before, and I was reasonably certain my scrotum was in appropriate condition to continue the trek.

At Monte do Gozo the view is dominated by a large sculpture erected to celebrate the visit of Pope John Paul II in the 1993 holy year. I would describe it as ugly, although this may, in fact, be the Pope`s finest erection...

761 Eh voila! The pope's, well, you know.

764 A closeup of one side of the base
From this hill you also get the first view of Santiago, although today the cathedral is obscured by trees and the ever-growing suburbs.

767 First view of Santiago de Compostela
I had a minor incident as we walked by the university. After walking almost 800 kilometres without incident, I tripped over a curb and landed on the ground, my face leading. I ended up with some scrapes on my right knee. Markus insisted that I was really focussing on a couple of Spanish university co-eds who were walking in front of me. Not true!

And so, at 11:15 in the morning under a brilliant blue sky I reached my goal, the magnificent cathedral at Santiago de Compostela.

775 Main facade of the cathedral
We walked over to the Oficina del Peregrino to get our Compostela and then we attended the noon pilgrims’ mass where the names, countries of origin, and places of departure of those who had arrived the previous day were announced.
779 Standing in line to get my "compostela".

792 Interior of the cathedral
After a celebratory drink at a bar (OK, I drank for both of us and the toasts were numerous!), we made our way to the albergue. The celebration continued later into the evening.

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